KHIVA

I MANAGED TO REACH KHIVA TOO.  BY TAXI. THERE WAS ANOTHER TRAVELLER IN  MY HOTEL WHO BOOKED AMIN AND HIS CAR SO I JUST SHARED THE COST , 90 DOLLARS ROUND TRIP, FOR A 500 KMS BUHKARA-KHIVA. ' HE IS A SIMPLE MAN' I WAS TOLD. WELL , MAYBE , BUT FELIX MY TRAVELLING COMPANION TURNED OUT TO BE SPANISH AS INTRODUCED, BUT LIVING IN MANHATAN WITH HIS WIFE WHO WORKS AT UN AND HIS TWO DAUGHTERS. ALL LIVED IN MEXICO, YEMEN, CAMBODIA, MONGOLIA ..AMONG OTHER PLACES. SO IT WAS A PLEASANT TRIP ISPEAKING SPANISH, RUSSIAN WITH THE DRIVER, AND ROMANIAN AND ARABIC WITH EVERYBODY ELSE. WE WERE THE ONLY ONES IN THE HOTEL, PROBABLY IN THE TOWN. TILL THE MORNING ARRIVAL OF A NOISY GROUP OF JAPANESE.THEY ARRIVED LIKE BIRDS WITH CAMERAS.

 KHIVA IS A VERY OLD TOWN, ALL A FORTRESS, LIKE THE BYZANTINE  PALACE WE VISITED IN SPLIT. IT WAS COLD, VERY COLD -SO I BOUGHT ANOTHER HAT AND A PAIR PF GLOVES. THE SUBZERO TEMPERATURE THOUGH DID NOT STOP THE ROW OF WEDDINGS OF THURSDAY CEREMONIES - ALL BRIDES WEARING WHITE, LOW CUT DRESSES WITH SHORT SLEEVES. THE GROOMS LOOKED FROZEN BUT CONTENT. LEE, I FOLLOWED YOUR INSTRUCTIONS AND TOOK SOME VIDEOS OF THEIR WILD DANCES.  THE PEOPLE OF KHIVA ARE NOT PLEASANT THOUGH. - LIKE IN BUHKARA OR SAMARKAND - MUCH ROUGHER AND UNFRIENDLY. THE COLD MUST HAVE GOT TO THEIR HEART. WE RETURNED  THE NEXT DAY , DRIVING 120 KMS AN HOUR. THERE WERE CHECK POINTS FROM TIME TO TIME WHERE AMIN WOULD JUMP OUT OF THE CAR WITH HIS DRIVING LICENCE AND A BANK NOTE OF 1000 SOMS NICELY FOLDED INSIDE . JUST TO MAKE SURE , THEY DO NOT KEEP US WAITING OR OPEN THE BAGPACKS ..IT WAS BETTER BEFORE HE SAYS, NO MONEY TO BE PAID, WE HAD MORE WORK, EVERYBODY WAS THE SAME...YOU HEAR THIS EVERWHERE. - - THEY ARE NOT CRAZY ABOUT KARIMOV WHO IS GOING TO BE RE ELECTED ON DEC.28TH FOR THE THIRD TIME, WITHOUT AN OPPOSITION....BUT THEY ALL ADORE PUTIN WHO IS A VERY SMART AND PROUD MAN. SO HERE YOU GO WITH THE CENTRAL ASIA POLITICS.

BACK IN BUKHARA I WAS WALKING THROUH  THE BAZAAR TO DISCOVER A STAND WITH AN ENDEARING DISPLAY OF LENIN FLAGS, WRITINGS OF THE  KORAN AND RUSSIAN ORTHODOX ICONS. IT REMINDED ME OF THE HAVANA MARKET WHERE MARYLIN MONROW IS SMILING NEXT TO CHE GHEVARA. THE AMUSING WORLDY AFFAIRS OF OUR LIVES.

I AM LEAVING TOMMOROW , BY TRAIN ,TO TASHKENT AND THEN FLY TO ISTANBUL FOR ONE NIGHT AND BACK TO THE SNOWS OF BOSTON.

BRIAN YOUR PICTURE WITH THE KIDS IS WONDERFUL. I OPENED THE FILE IN DOWNTOWN BUKHARA. AND YOU LEE AND RICKI MUST HAVE HAD A GLORIOUS TIME AT THE OPERA, AND I ENVY YOUR SUMMER IN SAN CLEMENTE STACEY.

ALL IN ALL , LOVE FROM THE LAND OF 1001 ARABIAN NIGHTS.

CU DRAG

Roxana von Kraus Quo Vadis Inc. 288 Newbury Street Boston, Massachusetts 02115 USA  Tel: +1 617 421-9494 Fax: +1 617 421-0928    

--

10 Great Gift Ideas - Take a Look!
mail.com Shopping

BUKHARA INTERNET CAFE

EVERYTHING I OWE IS ON ME. IT IS NOT SO COLD TODAY THOUGH. BUT EVEN THE OTHER GUYS AROUND ME ARE EQUALLY DRESSED. FIRST I'VE THOUGHT THEY ARE CLIENTS LIKE ME. WRONG. THESE ARE THE EMPLOYEES WHO ARE READY FOR A DAY AT WORK - LIKE IN ROMANIA, THE OFFICES ARE ON THE COOL SIDE,FOR NLACK OF HEATING. I'VE COME FOR THE UZBEKISTAN AIR - A SLIGHT CHANGE IN THE ITINERARY - THAT HAS BEEN WORKED ON SINCE THIS MORNING - 'THE COMPUTERS ARE DOWN IN THE ENTIRE CPUNTRY " I WONDER. I HAVE ACCESS TO THIS MACHINE AND SO DOES THE KID NEXT TO ME CHEWING GUM , PLAYING VIDEO GAMES AND LOOKING INTENSELY OVER MY SHOULDER . HOW MUCH HE UNDERSTANDS - I WILL NEVER KNOW.

MEANWHILE TO PUT UP WITH THE IDLE TIME I WALKED OVER TO THE UNIVERSITY - THE SCHOOL OF ECONOMICS - AND PLANNED A STUDENT MEETING WITH MY GROUP FOR NEXT SPRING. THE RECTOR WEARING A LARGE FUR HAT, INVITED US WITH A WIDE SMILE OF GOLDEN TEETH. 'SURE IT WILL BE VERY INTERESTRING. I WAS IN NEW YORK AT NYU AND VISITED MIT AS WELL. WE WILL ARRANGE THE RENDEZ VOUS FOR YOU" . INSHALLAH.
THE SCHOOL LOOKED RATHER POOR, OUR BUCHAREST UNIVERSTIY BY COMPARISON FEELS LIKE SORBONNE. BUT IT WILL STILL BE VERY INTERESTRING.
HE HAS ALSO GIVEN ME A CONTACT IN TASHKENT. SO THAT'S THE NEXT STEP.

I KNOW COPERNICUS WAS BEFORE GIORDANO BRUNO, BUT WHO CLAIMED FIRST THAT THE EARTH IS ROUND. THE GREEKS WERE NOT THE ONES FOR SURE.
JUST CURIOSITY. I AM GOING BACK TO UZBEKISTAN AIR, MAYBE THEIR COMPUTERS WILL BE UP. IF NOT .BACK TO UNIVERSITY OR EVEN TO KAFETERIA ,FOR A NESS CAFE, CHOCOLATE CAKE AND DRY FRUITS. EVERYWHERE YOU ARE SERVED APRICOTS, DATES, NUTS..
AND EATING SUN FLOWER SEEDS IS A NATIONAL SPORT.
LITTLE TRIVIALITES FROM DOWNTOWN BUKHARA.
I WILL KEEP YOU POSTED.

--
10 Great Gift Ideas- Take a Look!
http://mail.shopping.com/?linkin_id=8033174

BUKHARA INTERNET CAFE

EVERYTHING I OWE IS ON ME. IT IS NOT SO COLD TODAY THOUGH. BUT EVEN THE OTHER GUYS AROUND ME ARE EQUALLY DRESSED. FIRST I'VE THOUGHT THEY ARE CLIENTS LIKE ME. WRONG. THESE ARE THE EMPLOYEES WHO ARE READY FOR A DAY AT WORK - LIKE IN ROMANIA, THE OFFICES ARE ON THE COOL SIDE,FOR NLACK OF HEATING. I'VE COME FOR THE UZBEKISTAN AIR - A SLIGHT CHANGE IN THE ITINERARY - THAT HAS BEEN WORKED ON SINCE THIS MORNING - 'THE COMPUTERS ARE DOWN IN THE ENTIRE CPUNTRY " I WONDER. I HAVE ACCESS TO THIS MACHINE AND SO DOES THE KID NEXT TO ME CHEWING GUM , PLAYING VIDEO GAMES AND LOOKING INTENSELY OVER MY SHOULDER . HOW MUCH HE UNDERSTANDS - I WILL NEVER KNOW.

MEANWHILE TO PUT UP WITH THE IDLE TIME I WALKED OVER TO THE UNIVERSITY - THE SCHOOL OF ECONOMICS - AND PLANNED A STUDENT MEETING WITH MY GROUP FOR NEXT SPRING. THE RECTOR WEARING A LARGE FUR HAT, INVITED US WITH A WIDE SMILE OF GOLDEN TEETH. 'SURE IT WILL BE VERY INTERESTRING. I WAS IN NEW YORK AT NYU AND VISITED MIT AS WELL. WE WILL ARRANGE THE RENDEZ VOUS FOR YOU" . INSHALLAH.
THE SCHOOL LOOKED RATHER POOR, OUR BUCHAREST UNIVERSTIY BY COMPARISON FEELS LIKE SORBONNE. BUT IT WILL STILL BE VERY INTERESTRING.
HE HAS ALSO GIVEN ME A CONTACT IN TASHKENT. SO THAT'S THE NEXT STEP.

I KNOW COPERNICUS WAS BEFORE GIORDANO BRUNO, BUT WHO CLAIMED FIRST THAT THE EARTH IS ROUND. THE GREEKS WERE NOT THE ONES FOR SURE.
JUST CURIOSITY. I AM GOING BACK TO UZBEKISTAN AIR, MAYBE THEIR COMPUTERS WILL BE UP. IF NOT .BACK TO UNIVERSITY OR EVEN TO KAFETERIA ,FOR A NESS CAFE, CHOCOLATE CAKE AND DRY FRUITS. EVERYWHERE YOU ARE SERVED APRICOTS, DATES, NUTS..
AND EATING SUN FLOWER SEEDS IS A NATIONAL SPORT.
LITTLE TRIVIALITES FROM DOWNTOWN BUKHARA.
I WILL KEEP YOU POSTED.

--
10 Great Gift Ideas- Take a Look!
http://mail.shopping.com/?linkin_id=8033174

BUKHARA

WE STARTED THE TOUR EARLY - NO IDEA WHY. WE ARE THE ONLY TWO TOURISTS AT THE INN,IN THE CITY FOR THAT MATTER. WHY THE HURRY ..

WE DEPARTED BUKHARA CENTER, A PIED, RIGHT AT THE STATUE OF NASTRATIN HOGEA, THE TURKISH FOLK HERO OF OUR ROMANIAN TALES. A BRONZE MAN IN HALAT AND PAPUCI SITTING ON A LITTLE DONKEY -THE ASIAN DON QUIXOTTE AS THR GUIDE LIKES TO CALL HIM, HE IS IN SHOCK THAT I KNOW HIM AS WELL - WHAT, YOU READ ABOUT HIM IN THE UNITED STATES ??

IT HAS TURNED COLD , VERY COLD. MY FINGERS ARE FROZEN ON THE CAMERA AND I BUY AN ASTRAHAN HAT FOR 20 DOLLARS, LIKE I BUY A CHINESE UNBRELLA IN NEW YORK UNDER THE RAIN. THERE ARE ABOUT 900 MONUMENTS IN BUKHARA, WE SAW ABOUT 10 TODAY, THE ONES UNDER UNESCO PROTECTION. I AM UNABLE TO LIST THEM BY NAMES - THEY HAVE ALL MELTED INTO MY CONSCIOUS WHEN I ORDERED A VOTKA FOR LUNCH - ME AND A HAPPY GROUP OF WEALTHY GYPSY WOMEN NEXT TO ME.THE GUIDE WANTED TO CHALLENGE US - DO YOU KNOW THIER NATINALITY , HE ASKED WITH A TEASE. LITTLE DID HE KNOW. ALL UZBEKI GIPSIES SPEAK TAJIK AND ARE AS UNPOPULAR HERE AS OURS IN ROMANIA OR EVERYWHERE ELSE.

AMY BOUGHT THE BAZAAR - CARPETS, SILK SPREADS, HATS, KNIVES - CHRISTMAS IS COMING YOU KNOW. I KNOW. ALA WOULD HAVE GONE CRAZY IN THAT CARPET WORKSHOP.

FOR LUNCH WE BROKE BREAD TOGETHER, FRESH BAKED NAN , A SASHLIK CHIFTEA WITH ONIONS AND GREEN TEA. IT REMINDED ME OF OUR MUSCELUL, THE PUB AROUND THE CORNER FROM US IN STRADA SPATARULUI. AND NOW I AM SO VERY FAR AWAY - IN BUKHARA.

THE HISTORY MUSEUM SHOWED A NAIVE BUT ACCURATE ROUTE FOR ALEXANDER THE GREAT'S CAMPAIGN FROM PELLA INTO THE WORLD, FIRST SOUTH INTO EGYPT AND THEN EAST ,FURTHER EAST, TILL SAMARKAND WHERE HE MARRIED THE CHIEF'S DAUGHTER ROXANA. HIS ARMY REACHED THE INDIAN BORFER AND NEVER RETURNED TO MACEDONIA. WHAT AN AMAZING COMANDER HE WAS. NEVER SICK, ALWAYS ON THE MOVE. HIS TUTORS WERE TEACHING THE HOSTAGES GREEK, INCLUDING THE WIFE OF THE PERSIAN KING. SPREADING HELLENISM - AS THEY SAY.

I AM SCHEDULED TO GO TO KHIVA IN TWO DAYS BUT I WONDER. IT IS TOO COLD TO THINK. AND KHIVA IS EVEN COLDER, AND THEN BOSTON IS NO SAN MARTIN EITHER...THE OLDER I GET THE MORE SUN I NEED.

ALEXANDRA NEEDS A LITTLE PRAYER . SO I WILL SEND HER MY BEST THOUGHTS FROM BUKHARA. FOR HER , AND HER SON.
CU MULT DRAG

--
10 Great Gift Ideas- Take a Look!
http://mail.shopping.com/?linkin_id=8033174

' TOMBE LA NEIGE'

WAS PLAYED IN ' BELLA ITALIA' A GRAND RESTAURANT IN THE SHOPPING CENTER. BRINGS BACK MEMORIES OF ALAMO'S COMNCERTS IN BUCURESTI, OF VOTKA LIMON PLAYED IN NEW YORK LINCOLN CENTER CINEMA, OF DRIVING WITH DAN OVER THE BROOKLYN BRIGE WITH A POT OF SARMALE FOR LEE AND NOW - BUKHARA, THE HEART OF CENTRAL ASIA.

WE ARRIVED HERE THIS MORNING BY TRAIN - 'THE SHARK', SECOND CLASS , WHERE TEA WAS SERVED FROM A LARGE THERMOS CARRIED AROUND, IN NICE GLASS CUPS PLUS A LITTLE PLATE WITH A MELANGE OF CABBAGE AND SOME UNKNOWN MEAT - I PASSED ON THAT. THEY EAT HORSE MEAT HERE, BUT NO DOG MEAT - LIKE IN CHINA OR VIETNAM.

WE REACHED BUKHARA IN 3 HOURS, AND TRANSFERED TO OUR INN EMIR HOUSE. NEGOCIATED A TAX FEE BEFORE WE BOARDED, ABOUT 4 DOLLARS PER CAR, AND THEN PROCEEDEDTHROUGH TEH RAIN WITH A RUSSIAN CASETTE BLASTING IN THE FRONT AND AMY IN THE BACK SEAT WONDERING WHAT WAS HAPPENING. THE TAXI DRIVER WORE A PURPLE 'HALAT'/ ROBE , IN VELOUR AND PAPUCI / SLIPPERS. THE ROOMS AT THE INN ARE QUITE LOVELY, VERY WARM ,NICE LOCAL DECORATIONS AND WELCOMED US WITH A POT OF GREEN TEA 'ZAHAR'/SUGAR.A DISH OF DATES,AND A BOWL OF SWISS CHOCOLATES.

AMY IS HAVING A MASSAGE NOW, 20 PER HOUR WITH A REAL DOCTOR ON SERVICE 24 HOURS A DAY - I WONDER, AND I AM USING THE INTERNET FOR 1 DOLLAR/HOUR. EVERYWHERE ELSE WAS 4 DOLLARS PER HOUR..I'VE NOTICED IF I SPAEK ROMANIAN I GO MUCH FYRTHER THAN WITH ENGLISH. SO I AM USING IT MORE AND MORE OFTEN PLUS THE BIT OF RUSSIAN THATIS COMING BACK TO ME. MOST TOURISTS IN BHKHARA ARE FRENCH ..NO AMERICANS REALLY. WHEN I'VE ASKED AMY WHY, SHE REPLIED THAT MOST TRAVELLERS WOULD BE ANXIOUS TO COMETO UZBEKISTAN THAT SHARES A BORDER WITH AFGANISTAN , VIA TURKEY THAT IS SO CLOSE TO IRAQ - SO SORRY BUT THAT THOUGHT HAS NEVER CROSSED MY MIND.

BUKHARA IS THE LAND OF 1001 ARABIAN NIGHTS. FOR US THIS IS THE FIRST. TOMORROW WE HAVE THE GUIDE COMING WITH HIS OWN CAR, FOR A DAY OF TOURING - 50 DOLLARS PER DAY - THE GDP PER PER CAPITA HERE IS 900 DOLLARS , SO WE CONTRIBUTE HEAVILY TO THEIR ECONOMY.
AMY SAYS THAT IT FEELS LIKE PROVINCETOWN IN WINTER - EVERYTHING IS PRETTY BUT YOU KNOW THE FUN COMES ONLY IN SUMMWE. I LIKE IT BETTER THIS WAY, THOUGH.

I WILL KEEP YOU POSTED FROM THE LAND OF ALEXANDER THE GREAT,TIMURLANE,GHINGIS HAN AND THE REST...
BRIAN, I THINK 'ISKANDER'MEANS ALEXANDER ?! TRUE ..
THEY DO NOT BELIEVE THAT MY NAME IS ROXANA, ALEXANDER'S WIFE BORN IN SAMARKAND....
CU DRAG.

--
10 Great Gift Ideas- Take a Look!
http://mail.shopping.com/?linkin_id=8033174

samarkand

IT HAS STARTED TO RAIN, WITH SNOW..THIS MORNING WAS SO COLD THAT I WAS UNABLE TO TAKE ANY PHOTO WITH MY FROZEN HANDS AMY THOUGH,MIRACULOUSLY REVIVED WITH CHARCOAL TABLETS AND POMEGRANATES TEA,WAS SHOOTING EVERYTHING, IN A SHORT SLEEVED BLOUSE AND NO JACKET IN SIGHT. THE MOST IMPRESSIVE PLACE WAS NOT THE REGISTAN SQUARE THAT IS NEWLY REBUILT,BUT THE NEKROPOLIS OF THE LIVING KING - THAT STILL HAS THE FEEL OF THE 15TH CENTURY, WITH MOST OF THE MONUMENTS UNTOUCHED. I EVEN ASKED AN IMAN TO SAY A PRAYER FOR ME AND HE SANG ONE PASSAGE OF THE KORAN LOOKING TOWARDS MECCA. IT FELT SO RIGHT, AND IRAQ IS SO CLOSE TO HERE. I THINK WE ARE EVEN ON THE SAME SIDE OF TIME.

JUST RETURNED FROM OUR GUIDE'S HOUSE ,FORM A FAMILY DINNER COOKED BY HIS MOTHER. SHE SERVED US 'SARMALE', CALLED THE SAME BY THE TATARS OF THE CRIMEEA - SO HERE WE GO. GOING HALF WAY AROUND THE WORLD TO COME HOME AGAIN...THERE ARE 120 NATIONALITIES IN UZBEKISTAN - RUSSIANS, IRANIANS, GREEKS, ARMENIANS, COREANS, TAJIKS, JEWS..'AND WE LIVE IN PEACE. NO RELIGIOUS CONFLICTS'-SAYS THE GUIDE .SURE , BECAUSE THERE IS NO RELIGION . NOBODY GOES TO CHURCH OR TO MOSQUE, EVERYBODY WAS CLEANSED OF ANY RELIGIOUS INCLINATIONS DURING THE SOVIET OCCUPATION - SO NOW IT IS SILENCE IN THEIR SOULS.THE GUIDE THINKS THAT ALL THE UZBEKI GIPSIES COME FROM INDIA ,WHILE ALL THE OTHER GIPSIES IN THE WORLD ARE ROMANIANS. YOU CAN IMAGINE HOW OVERWHELMED I WAS WITH HIS MIS INFORMATION.
(HIS DAUGHTHER IS ALINA AND SHE SHOWED ME HER COLLECTION OF UZBEKI BARBIES - MADE IN CHINA ...I AM SURE THAT OUR US BARBIES ARE NOT MADE IN VERMONT EITHER,MAYBE A BETTER CHINA OUTFIT )

TOMORROW WE ARE LEAVING FOR BUKHARA WITH HER PUPPET THEATER THAT AT THIS POINT IN TIME SEEMS MORE ENCHANTING THAN ANY BLUE TILED MONUMENT. ALL THE PAYMENTS TO HOTELS, GUIDES, RESTAURANTS AND ALIKE ARE MADE IN CASH - FOR ONE DOLLAR WE RECEIVE 2000 SOMS SO FOR EVERY 50 DOLLARS WE NEED A SPECIAL BAG TO CARRY THE PILE OF CASH. 'MAKE SURE YOU COUNT ALL THESE MONEYS - HERE EVEN THE NATIONAL BANK OF UZBEKISTAN CAN CHEAT YOU',HOW REASSURING.

I WILL KEEP YOU POSTED. SORRY FOR THE MISTAKES BUT THE SPELL CHECK GOES ONLY FOR RUSSIAN,NOT ENGLISH.
CU DRAG,

--
10 Great Gift Ideas- Take a Look!
http://mail.shopping.com/?linkin_id=8033174

TASKENT KINO

THE "KINO" WAS THE KAZAKSTAN MOVIE THEATER CLOSE TO MY HOTEL. NOT MANY SIGNS OUTSIDE, INSIDE DARK AND EMPTY. A POLICEMAN SLEEPING ON A RED VELVET COACH, IN THE FOYER. AND ABOUT 8 GUYS IN THE AUDIENCE.
THE WOMAN AT KASSA ASKED FOR 2000 SOMS(ABOUT TWO DOLLARS )AND WARNED ME - "PA RUSKI" !!

I HAVE ALSWAYS BEEN SURPRISED BY THE POINT OF VIEW OF THE CINEMA ..IN ROMANIA ALL THE MOVIE SPIES WERE AMERICAN. LATER IN THE STATES ALL THE SPIES WERE RUSSIAN. NOW I WAS IN UZBEKISTAN WATCHING A RUSSIAN VERSION OF OO7 WITH A TWIST . THE MASTER SPY WAS A RUSSIAN WOMAN, A SUPERB RUSSIAN WOMAN THAT IS, WHO KILLS EVERYBODY IN SIGHT , AND SAVES THE WORLD FROM A NUCLEAR DISASTER. NEEDLESS TO SAY THAT THE MOVIE ENDS WITH THE US MARINES SALUTING THE RUSIAN SPECIAL FORCES ...VERY ENTERTAINING. I DID NOT MISS A BIT, EVEN IN A SEA OF UNKNOWN WORDS.

NOW I AM WRITING TO YOU FROM SAMARKAND I LEFT TASHKENT SEVERNY VAKSAL AT 7AM AND ARRIVED IN SAMARKAND THREE HOURS LATER. THE EXPRESS TRAIN - THE REGISTAN - WAS QUITE PLEASANT. COMFORTABLE LEATEHR SEATS, A SMALL TV ON THE TABLE, A WARM SNACK BREAKFAST. ONLY THE BATHROOM WAS MISERABLE - AS PER AMY - WHO IS SICK AGAIN AND SPENT MOST ON THE TRAIN RIDE THERE.
THE HOTEL OF MY CHOICE WAS CLOSED FOR LACK OF HEATING, AND WE ENDED UP AT A SOVIET STYLE HOTEL,THAT IS VERY WARM EVEN IN THIS LOW SEASON. SOME WORKERS ARE SETTING UP A CHRISTMAS TREE - I WONDER WHY, THERE ARE NO TOURISTS AROUND AND CHRISTMAS SHOULD BE A NON EVEN IN THIS MUSLIM COUNTTY. PROBABLY, JUST WISHFUL THINKJING. TODAY , DECEMBER 6TH IS ST NICHOLAS DAYM BYT THEY WOULD NOT KNOW THAT, FOR SURE.

I BRAVED THE COLD AND WALKED TO THE REGISTAN SQUARE - A DREAM OF BLUE AND GREEN TILES.BRIAN, SO WONDERFUL YOU SAW IT TOO. SO MANY YEARS AGO. THE COURTYARD IS FULL OF ARTIZANS TRYING TO SELL HAND WOVEN CARPETS, WALL COVERS, EMBROIDERED HATS,VELVET BELTS, COLOURFUL SILK BAGS, RICH CHESS SETS...I HAVE TO FIND A CHESS PLAYER.IN THIS COLD IT IS NOT MUCH TO DO, REALLY. I GAVE UP ON ANY PARK RENDEZ VOUS, MAYBE I CAN FIND THE CHESS CLUB. THE PUPPET THEATER IS CLOSED AND SO IS THE RUSSIAN DRAMA . I HAD A MASSAGE INSTEAD - 15 DOLLARS FOR ONE HOUR - ONE OF THE BEST MASSAGES EVER.THE PROBLEM IS THAT HARDLY ANYBODY ACCEPTS CREDIT CARDS AND ALL THE TRANSACTIONS ARE DONE IN CASH. THAT MAKES US THINK LONGER ON OUR VENTURES. THE HOTEL REFUSED TO GIVE MY PASSPORT BACK UNLESS I PAY !!! FEARFUL PROBABLY THAT I WOULD VENTURE OUT IN THE MIDDLE OF THE NIGHT...EVERY STEP IS RECORDED AND WE MUST KEEP THE RECORDS FOR THE DEPARTURE CHECK OUT - THIS GOES FOR HOTEL REGISTRATIONS, MONEY EXCHANGE, TRAIN AND AIRPLANE TICKETS...THE OLD SOVIET NEED TO KNOW EVERYTHING IS STILL VERY PRESENT.

TOMORROW MORNING I HAVE A GUIDE FOR THE CITY TOUR, WITH THE HOPE THAT THE SUN WILL FIND US. IF NOT THE BLACK RUSSIAN TEA MAY HELP...THE CITY HERE AS IN TASDKENT IS EMPTY - NOBODY IN THE STREET, AT THE OPERA, IN THE RESTAURANTS..LOW SEASON MAYBE BUY STILL...

I WILL KEEP YOU POSTED.
CU MULT DRAG.

--
10 Great Gift Ideas- Take a Look!
http://mail.shopping.com/?linkin_id=8033174